Your Guide to Laos

Squeezed in a corner of Southeast Asia between Cambodia, Thailand, Burma, Vietnam, and China, Laos seems to rest quietly in an almost natural state. Twice the size of Pennsylvania, Laos has been defined as “the forgotten country” because is in fact one of the least visited and developed places in the area, yet the attributive that fits it best is “The Jewel of Southeast Asia”. A French colony for almost one-hundred years, Laos has remained isolated from foreign influences up until 1975, and shyly opened up to tourism in the last decade.

Heavily supported by NGOs (nongovernmental organizations), and one of the poorest countries in the world, Laos will offer you some exciting eco-touring options such as kayaking along the spine of the land that forms the Mekong river, trekking up in the mountains, or exploring into the Buddhist culture. Even the shortest visit to this enchanting, laid-back land will teach you to slow your pace to match its own. A trip to Laos is not about the destination, but the journey itself.

The country has a diverse geography that matches its population as every region conforms a piece of this rich tapestry of ethnic minorities. The best time to visit Laos is the cool season between November and February, as it rains least and isn’t too hot (temperatures oscillate between 71 and 75 degrees). Be advised that these are the peak tourist months since some major national and regional festivals (buns) take place during this period. During the rainy season -from May through October- most of the roads are washed out and the Mekong grows, offering a better chance to kayak its peaceful waters.

A visa is required to enter. Most border crossings will issue them upon arrival for 15 days. Make sure to have 2 passport size pictures and $30. You can obtain one for 30 days if issued at a Laos embassy. Once in Laos you can get an extension for an extra day at a travel agency for $3. Overstaying will risk you arrest, and a $5 fine for each day upon departure.

The cheapest way to get to Laos is flying to Bangkok, Thailand. A flight from Bangkok to the border city of Udon Thani is a third the cost of an equivalent one-way flight from Bangkok to Vientiane (the capital city); while a round-trip is half the cost. From Udon Thani you can take a 40-minute minivan ride that will take you to the Friendship Bridge that crosses the Mekong river and unites Thailand and Laos. From the border, a 100-Thai baht ($3) bus ride will take you to the center of the city in approximately 20 minutes.

Vientiane could be defined as one of the world’s unique capitals. As contrasting as the city is, you will find European sedans parked alongside rusty tuk-tuks (three-wheeled bicycles that serve as taxis), people talking on cell phones, monks in robes playing online video games at an internet café, and fine dining restaurants sharing the block with the popular and inexpensive ones. This tendency Laos is following from neighboring Thailand’s model is regarded as both dangerous to its natural resources and helpful to its economy. On one side, the further exploitation of forests and waterways may signify the loss of a gentle way of life; on the other, the aperture to the international market may boost the country’s economy. On the verge of this decisive position, the Lao government has been working with UN agencies to control the rural development in order to protect the vital resources at stake. Either way, if you decide to go to Laos and experience its natural state, do it with the utmost interest of being an attentive observer.

Laotians are extremely generous, friendly, and easy-going, and music and dance are part of the daily Lao character as well as their religion (60% of Lao people are practicing Buddhists). Foreigners are encouraged to do their part to preserve the peaceful environment, so keep in mind these social rules when you leave your hotel room.
- One of the main tourist attractions are the hundreds of Buddhist temples (wats) and shrines dispersed across the country. Never go shirtless, wear miniskirts or revealing shorts, and take off your shoes when entering one; breaking these rules is regarded as not polite and a lack of respect for their religious beliefs. Also, never climb a Buddha statue and keep your head lower than the monks. If you’re a woman, refrain yourself from touching or speaking directly to a monk, unless inside a temple. To your surprise, you will find that Lao people will change seats on the buses so that monks can sit only near men.
- A kiss or embrace from a stranger is considered insulting. Traditionally, Lao people use the nop to greet someone. Raise your hands in praying position; the higher you go, the more respect you show. Perform it sincerely and will win you instant friends.
- The head is believed to be very important to the souls and purity, while the feet are considered filthy. Never touch someone’s head, not even a baby’s, or point with your feet as it is considered barbaric. If you’re a woman seated on the floor, tuck your legs to one side; only men may sit with the legs crossed. Needless to say that you have to keep your feet off furniture when in public.
- Body hygiene is of the highest standards. Shower often and you will avoid being embarrassed.
- Show respect for the elderly and for the Lao culture.
- If you’re traveling with your partner, keep any display of affection private; public displays are taboo.
- Smile a lot, and use your eyes and common sense to maximize your chances of social success.

Laos is very much a cash country, especially outside of Vientiane. Keep always small USD notes with you that will be easier to change. Travelers cheques are almost impossible to change outside the city, and credit cards are only accepted in fine restaurants and luxury hotels. Although US Dollars are widely accepted, it’s always better if you carry some Thai baht or Lao kip, the national currency (the conversion goes US$ 1 to 10,000 kip). Accommodation-wise, you will find from luxury to backpacker and inexpensive deals. Either way, make sure you book ahead and ask for a discount if you go during the rainy season. $20 a day will suffice for all your needs, although it’s possible to get by on less than $10 depending on your expectations.

Outside of Vientiane toiletries can be hard to find, as well as are batteries, film and video tapes, so bring your own toilet paper or find a convenient tree. Even though trash cans are limited outside the city, pollution is almost inexistent, so don’t contribute to it and keep a plastic bag with you where you can dispose of your garbage until you make it back to the city. Keep in mind that Laos uses 220V AC, so have your own adapter if you’re taking electronics with you, and don’t forget to throw in a flashlight in your baggage as electricity is scarce outside the city (sometimes available for only a few hours a day), and power cuts are frequent. The country is extremely safe as a general rule, but petty crime does exist, so minding your valuables won’t hurt. If you find yourself out in the rural area, be cautious as little accommodations and services are available, and some recent robberies have been reported in those areas.

Vientiane will offer you the chance to experience first hand the Buddhist culture and more. Many temples have been beautifully reconstructed and allow access to visitors of any kind. That Luang is probably the most prominent one and the scene of an important festival in November. The Buddha Park -a sculpture garden full of Hindu and Buddhist statues- is awe-inspiring. You can’t miss the huge reclining Buddha and the opportunity to take the “me next to a giant Buddha” shot. The Morning Market (Talaat Sao) is where all the action takes place. Wake up early one morning and walk among the street vendors to breathe in some of the laid-back atmosphere. The city block is a sea of goods to explore, and your chance to put your bargaining skills to test. This is the Lao version of “mall culture” and a place you can’t ignore during your stay. The Plain of Jars is also a stunning and mysterious place with hundreds of stone jars of varying sizes. At the end of the day, you can relax by the Mekong sipping on Beerlao, one of the country’s few exports, and watch the sunset turn the water pink.

During your stay, you will understand the fascinating concoction this country is. Laos will ask you to never be in a hurry, and let the calm penetrate your very being. Make sure you leave your worries and prejudices at home when you travel to Laos, and you will find that the beauty of it exists not only along the Mekong at sunset, but in smiles at the market and the hospitality of its citizens.